Saturday, November 29, 2008

MARIA AND FILIP
Maria was one of Young woman in family. Newlywed for a Filip, she have taken over early duties to release her mother in law, which was seriously ill. Also this give her chance to spend sometime alone with her husband, before he leave after every day duties. In the kitchen was nice and cozy. Separate building of living quarters, build as everything else of lime stone. No plaster ewer covered the walls.Walls was black around the open fire- place, suited on Eastern wall with smoke overhang, black as well. From the middle of the overhang, hang the chain with hook on which is above the fire big black iron pot. In the pot was water boiling already and she tossed potatoes from woven basket, called sprtvica in it. This morning she will cook potatoes and fried some bacon, using the fat melted from bacon the year before, to spice up potatoes. Also she cooked something what smell as coffee, but grains did not looks even close to the coffee beans. It was wheat baked slowly over the fire grind in metal coffee grinder, it will taste as real thing and mixed with mild, will warm up the Man before long day.
Filip was tall man in his mid twenties and was as all other’s in family. Tall over six feet slim and trim, no fat can be found on his masculine body, heavy work in fields and mountains, forests turn his body in pure muscle. Home made shirt stretch tightly on his shoulders, and one will have filling to will burst on seams. Like coal black hair, curled, in





Un-combable nuts, support black hat with sun shield made of wool. Pants is of wool to, in it natural color and in hot summer days they will cool the body, when in winter they will preserve the body temperature, allowing the wearer to spend almost unlimited time outdoors. “Good morning” Maria answered, and continues to work. As by accident finding the kitchen to small, her flying vushtan will touch Filip here and there. At the moment, he did not think nothing about seriously, but when game continue, reflection of fire in his eyes, take life of his own. Full round Maria hips was all he can see taking part in the game he try to catch her and missed. She start to smile, guttural, deep, from throat and that increase the will in the Filip. ”Would you get me some eggs from the stall?” he ask.
Maria shake head and two long braids, thick as Filip’s arm fly around her head. She left the kitchen, and moment after Filip left kitchen in hurry. Slowly Filip open the door of a stall. Stall was under living quarters on the first floor. In winter, heat of animals in the stall will keep bedrooms warm, when in the summer when animals were on pasture, bedrooms will be cool. On one end was dry leafs, gathered in forest last winter, for animals to keep them clean and dry, through the year. Stall was full of familiar odors of mule’s, horses, donkeys, sheep’s and chicken. Wooden half walls separate the different places for different animals and chicken have chosen farthest to make they nest. He past the length of stall without sound, Maria “unaware” of his presence have been on her knees and picking the eggs from




the nest’s in sprtvica. Filip silently approach her and get on his knees, give her bear hug which she liked so much, She make noise as of surprise and quickly turn in his arms. They mouths meet in a hot kiss and whole world stop to exist for them. They was catching each other and dive through dry lives, playing as two children until she give up and give his hug, pull him on her full body. His hands shaking of excitement lift her vushtan and under skirt. Only hot breathing and muffled ooh and aaaahhhh can be heard. On first floor in his parents bedroom, her mother in law Manda, wake up her husband and with smile on her face said quietly: “Pavle, do you think to I will see my grandson before I die?” On beginning he pretend to can not wake up, and then first time in many years he hug her gently and said: “Shut up, you can not live me with little kids alone. I have mans job to do, and this is a women’s job to take care about grandkids, everybody know that, so don’t bother me with stupid questions. You can not die until you see the kids grow”.
It was against the tradition to man show feelings. Something like big apple seat in his throat and he have trouble to talk. So he pretend to cough and clear the something-nothing from choked throat. He never told her after they was married to he love her, he never give her hug in public. But they still give birth to sixteen children. If you ask him about, he will never admit to he love her, but deep inside his heart was bleeding and he was scared to death to he will be left alone. He do not remember to his father ewer told his mother any





gentle works and to expose the love in words was unheard of…Man not suppose to do that. Women was, as priest in church often said on German: “Man is to be worker, provider and soldier if king ask for it, and woman was only good for Kuhe, Kirche and Kinde.” What we will said : for kitchen, church and kinds. This was hard times and was asking for a special breed of people. No necessary words, no expression of fillings. But couple stick together, no man ewer beat the woman, no yells was ewer heard of, divorce was unheard thing to do and it was clear to man’s word is last. It was tough world. His wife did not inspect any show felling, and will probably ask herself, what’s wrong if he did do that. That was only for town people, spoiled people as she know to said or lazy people if he was talking about.
In stall all was not quiet. No sound was heard from under the thin pine wood planks floor. Maria have put her vushtan in order, he pull some lives from her hair, pull up his pants, tighten the belt and straighten the shirt. They walk out from stall and in to the kitchen together.
Potatoes was already done and she start to drain the water. She pour cold water over the potatoes to cool them down and hang the frying pan on to the chain. Thick slices of bacon soon was sizzling and become red, than she throw handful of chopped onion on the grease and stirred until was light yellow. Than she throw on chopped potatoes and stir all





together. After while potatoes become light brown and she brake couple of eggs over. Still sizzling, she put the food on wooden plate and put with wooden spoon on the front of him. On the low wooden home made table with tree legs, was already bread, baked in oven, which once a week bake ten round breads size of wheel barrel wheel, he get his pocket knife and cut slice of bread size of his hand. Next to a plate was by some magic appear steaming cup of coffee, and homemade sheep cheese. She seat on low three legged seat across from him and seat quietly, watching him eat. Maria did not eat. Contentedly just seat there and watch him eat, was all she wanted at that moment. Plate was soon empty, and he cut another little piece of bread and wipe plate clean. He light the cigarette and full of self confidence, puff the smoke in the air. Peace was all around them, and all was right.
This morning Filip was to go in to the Mountain with supple of salt for sheep’s and food for sheep herders. Also there was couple of wolf and bear traps made at hem by his father. Traps was needed to catch the predators which was to lazy to hunt. He prepare old musket, remaining in the family from Venetian war’s, but still good enough to kill the bear. Maria already have bring the animals to be saddled. Mule Ridja (Rusty) two horses and two donkeys. Home made cargo saddles was put on they back, on the blankets specially woven for that purpose. Ridja was not happy and try to bite or to get somebody with her hind huffs. She was working only when she liked. Otherwise one can brake thick stick over her




back, but she will not move. All goodies was loaded and animals tightened for a tail of each other. First horses the tallest ones, then mule and donkeys on the end. Maria handle him home made back pack of bright colored wool in inside was bottle with bevanda (half vine/half water to quench the thirst) piece of bread, dried sausage and cheese. Cigarettes, matches in oil skin. After he fit the back pack Maria handle him rifle and gun powder and bullets. She hold his hands for a moment and he was on his way.
Brass bells hanging under the necks of saddled horses, mules and donkeys, unison tolled as soon as column start up the hill path called Progon, what’s mean “Where all pass with they animals” Progon was long strait rocky path, made of limestone polished by millions of hoofs of passing animals and human feet. It was there before, it was there then, and it was there not. It was probably there when first predecessors arrive. Only what change on Progon was amount of dirt. Dirt was washed down the hill by fall and spring torrential rain’s which will pour down suddenly and suddenly how they started they will stop, with tons of dirt being washed from in-between the boulders down the path and in to the Sea in the Bay. Step by step, column climbed up the hill, bells was weaker more and more. Trees will never grow tall in this land again. All year round they try to grow and then in a moment North wind come Bura Whistling, cold strong, so strong to sometime one must to hold for a tree or bushes not to be blown away. Bura will blow and blow, for a days until




all weak branches, all dirt and dust, grass short after sheep’s was grazing, be blown away. This was a bad lands if ever one have seen one. But people survived and prosper in this harsh conditions, with the love for a homeland and satisfaction to others just come and go. After hour’s of marching always up and up, cavalcade reach lowest hill of mountain.
There he make first stop. He open the vessel for a water made of sheep skin and pour some in shallow wooden pot, each animal get same amount of water. He did not take cargo down, animals take rest under the saddles and Filip seat in the grass, open the back pack Maria have loaded or him this morning. He pull out white lines and put on the grass in front of him. Lined up all food and then solemnly take hat off and silently said prayer. Hat back on his head Filip start to eat. He was, munching little bites, little bit of this and that, everything will find the space in his mouth and strong white teeth will grind the food, slowly, delaying the swallowing to a last possible moment. Every once a while, he will lift up the gallow cowered with woven branches, and take a swallow of bevanda. After maybe fifteen minutes he pack up, and rewarded animals in column with some sugar cubes. If his father see what he was doing , there will be scolding. Sugar was not for animals it was too expensive.
Step after step, they was climbing up the mountain chest and soon disappear in first big Valley on their way. In that valley his uncle Krste have sheep herders and summer camp,




Krste’s wife have give to him letter, and Filip must go out of his way for a full hour to deliver it. Finally he smelled the smoke of the fire and little stony house was in front of him. Only door was opening on the Drste house and Filip start calling. “Hello, hello, anybody home? Its me Filip, I have letter for you!”
Finally door open wide and skinny man, with no fat on his bony structure, but muscles, playing under the skin with every move, with head which was dark of sun exposure and full of lines, deep facial lines, so deep to bottom was almost white, big nose, roman nose which was characteristic of whole family was in between dark brown eyes overshadowed by eyebrows bushy as bushes in the mountain meadows.
Krste walk out and shake hands with Filip. He take letter and did not say the word. Not surprised by Krste’s rudeness Filip turn around and backtrack himself to a trail leading in higher elevations. Delivery of a letter make him thinking why Krste always stay on the side of family, who he do not talk and why he do not smile. But prospect to come to his own range in Velebit soon take away clouds from his forehead and he continue toward the peaks behind which was big valley in which was sheep herders and animals. Valley was in the morning shadow of the St. Brdo peak and was good protection from Bura and a Lightning during the storms from South. Something was in that peak what make lightning to hit the ground so many times to stone was crunched like in a stone mill, almost to a




gravel size. On the other side pasture was the best just because was protected of elements by the body of a mountain peak. Under the northern slopes of St. Brdo was the small Valley within the main Valley, more meadow but there was no running water, Filip’s grand, grand father or maybe his grand, grand father have build the sheep herder house in one ravine full of boulders which was rutted deep in to the walls of the hills. House was as all others build of stones, found all over. White rain washed stones, laying for a centuries around house was small, one room which was at the same time kitchen, storage and bedroom northern corner was fireplace with always running fire. Above the fire, on the black chain hang big pot in which one of a sheep herders have pour all milk collected after milking a 400 sheep’s. Milk already hot, smelled nice and inviting. After milk boiled for a while they will take of all fat and after its cool down transfer in a special molds for a cheese, where will be seasoned and collected until is enough to fill up the mold. After that it will be stocked on a shelf put some weights on and getting hard, until the time to change mold and expose cheese to a smoke for a further seasoning. Rest of milk will be poured in goat skin vessels. Vessels was made of a goat or sheep hide when animal was skinned. Skin is cleaned and with special preparations and handling made liquid proof. This milk will be mixed with a salt and herbs in powder and after one year of seasoning, hanged on the rafters it will be ready for a consumptions. This was called Mishina, it was salty, it was




sour, but this reach taste was just what everybody was looking for. Town people will pay high price for a half kilogram of this delicacy. Under the roof was already dozen of full mishina goat skins, witnesses to a hard labor of sheep herders which get up in the morning before sunrise and start milking the sheep’s.
Filip walk out and take cargo of the animals, caring everything in to the house and stocking on the proper shelves. After taking care of cargo, he take saddles of the sweaty backs and grab some old rugs and start rubbing and rubbing, until horses, mules and donkey start blowing they’re nostrils satisfied. Then he take all of them in special dust pond where they laid down and start to roll back and forth until hide was well full of dust keeping the horse fly’s away. Protection was needed because big horse fly will bite and sting and sometime drive them nuts. After that he put short straps on the front legs and on this way he let them go on pasture without fear to they will walk far away. Now he was ready to take care of himself. He was hungry, tired of a hiking, always up the mountain but satisfied to he have made on the record time and without the trouble.
Filip fill up one Bukara, wooden cup made of a special evergreen wood split in tiny planks not thicker than a quarter centimeter, and held together with wooden belts made of soft wooden branches collected around the river, about one day of rowing from Rovanjska. Under special cower made of fine steel mesh, and made to keep food away of the flys, he




found the big round bread baked under the peka (thin like pot lid, and made for a bread baking in the town of Knin, good three days of walk from his village) and cut the hefty chunk with his trusty pocket knife sharp as razor blade. In the cold mountain air he sit in front of the house, on the bench made of one piece of stone and the table carved of the another. Mother nature give them all they need and they knew how to use any chance to use it properly. He put the bukara on the table, bread next to it and return in the house for a peace of cheese. Finally he sit down and stretch his long legs. Milk steam slowly climbed in to the cold herbs, bushes and the garlic from little garden behind the house. He byte bread, then cheese, and chewed slowly, enjoying the juices for a long time before swallow. His black bushy mustache collected fat from the milk surface and was shining under the sun. Finally taking the last byte and seep of milk he lean back, his back found the support on the house wall and, finally finding the right spot he pull bag with tobacco and start to roll his cigarette match sizzle on the surface of a stone table and he lit the roll up, inhale for a long time and exhale long and satisfied puff of a blue smoke in to the air, in front of his eyes was idyll of mountain peace, disturbed only with chirping of birds in the makia, and far toll of a bells around the sheep’s necks. It was peaceful, this felling surrounded and soothe everything and everybody and nothing was better than his life. Nothing can be better. Nobody can have better.





From the bottom of the valley haze start to emerge in the air. Filip knew to herd is on the way back, it will take another hour or so until he see the head of the herd. Old Broken horn will be as always on the leading position and his heavy head will sway from left to right in the bit of walk. Filip remember Broken Horn was always there, when Filip was only a child. It was no better leader of the heard far away. When people want to take pieces of the herd to the market, they will come to the Filip to barrow Old Broken Horn just to lead. Now he can hear barking of dogs Dalmatian sheepherder’s, he have five of them and have made for them collar with the spikes, in case to wolf’s or bear attack the heard, will not kill the good dogs. Collars was wide, made of bull’s hide reinforced with the metal stripe with sharp spikes sandwiched between. This collars already save two dogs of death in attack of a wolf pack last fall. This dogs of his, after battle was finish, have numerous wounds, one lost the ear, one lost the eye, here and there was no more furs on they shoulders, but warriors as they are have gain the respect of the wolfs which not intend to visit other herds. Filip have hear about attacks as far as from Tulove Grede and many owners have ask to barrow the dogs just for a few days hoping to wolfs will remember the dogs and go away. But Filip never let the dogs go, knowing to dogs will not understand, and never forgive such thing. This was THEIR flock, and THEIR men and all.
After avail he sow the white sea of hide rolling gently over pasture, dogs running busy




around keeping the sheep’s in tight formation, two young herders on the end of the herd and oldest one leading position with curbed stick in his hand.
Sometime past before he can hear the baking of the dogs clear in a crisp air, beeee, beeee, beee of the sheep’s, and toll of brass bells. Pretty soon he hear the chuckle of herders and short whistle of youngsters on the end of the herd. When Filip sighted Old Broken Horn he get up from the stone and open the pen door. He stay next to entrance and watch then first bundle of rolling fur enter the pen. Then he turn around and shake the hand of leader which was with his family so long to have teach Filip how to walk. Youngsters finish securing the last sheep’s in to the pen and left by they chores, and old herder and Filip seat in the front of the house and talk about the things, this and that what happen since Filip was last time in the Velebit and what’s was done, what’s have to be done. Old herder was widow and Filip’s family was only family he have, and Filip know to he can trust him as his father have done before. Old one was name Mate. Mate ask Filip if he did indeed bring him some tobacco and wrapping paper, because that was right now most important thing. He run of last tobacco some days back and all was aching for a good smoke. Filip knew Old man weakness toward good cigarette and have one bag ready for him long time before saw them in the distance. Mate roll first real cigarette in a long time and with deep satisfaction inhale deep, the warm, blue, aromatic Tobacco smoke. He hold his breath for a




while and sensed how all through his body travel sensation of light dizziness and his head become light. Tobacco make him so weak to he experience slight vertigo and must spread his legs to keep the balance. He knew to smoking make him cough in early morning and some time spit the blood but he just did not feel like quit smoking. That was one of rare things which he was not ready to give up in his life. On the other side, he unconsciously wanted to join his late wife in one better world without her work, cold winters, hunger…..he never thought about, but he miss her so bad to some time pain in the chest will be so great, to tears will come by them self and run down the face. He will never admit something like that, that was for a weaklings from the town, real man never cry and shows feelings. Real man just take day after day, as the come and do his best until Maker decide to it is time to call on him for a journey without return. He in his heart knew to this time coming and is every day closer, so he try to teach Youngsters all he knew. He teach them how to make cheese, mishina, how to skin the goat, and sheep. How to make wooden tools from the specially picked branches in the forest. He teach them how to make saddles, carve and spoons and forks, he teach them all he knew. Also he show them how to pick the proper timber for a fire wood in the fall. During the day when they walk slowly following the herd, one of them will go in to the forest and pick the branches from the trees, mark them with little ax which they always carry in the belts and then come back and explain the




Mate which, where and what for he picked the branch, and Mate will than walk in to the forest, find the tree and check the chosen branch. If decision was right he will come back and nod with the head, Youngster will than run in to the woods and cut just one, which he will start carve walking after the herd. One day he will make hey fork with as many prongs as many that branch can give, usually three or four. With the pocket knife branch will be peeled, and than with the ax cut on to the proper length. Prongs will be sharpened with the same ax and than fine carved using the pocket knife. Handle will be make smooth and polished so long to was shiny better that on the factory made handles. That was important because if handle was rough user hands will be seen full of blisters and of no use for a next couple of days. That’s why they spend long hours polishing and sharpening, and shaping the tool, until was almost perfect. And then one will first use the tool to proof to himself to all is as suppose to be..Next time when need for a new cargo saddle come, Mate will walk in to the forest and pick the proper branches for a specific animal. If it was horse curb on the branches was different that for a mule or donkey. This was important, because if curb was wrong animal will soon have sores where saddle did not seat properly. They will cut the branch of the tree and let it dry in the barn for along time until no more juices was in the wood. Than one will start shaping the wood. First with the ax, than with the knife and after all rough shaping was done, animal was brought to check the shape. Fine adjustments





are done with wood rasp until will fit perfect to a shoulders of a animal in question. After that with hand drill, holes will be drilled on the proper places for a straps, for a wooden planks which will connect the neck and shoulder of the saddle and which will be fastened with wooden dolls instead of steel nails. Everything was home made and work just right, properly was adjusted, than cushion was made and filled straw from last summer harvest. Filip’s father will in winter times blacksmith needles strait, curbed ones and all other different kinds which was used in manufacturing of different kind of projects. Sometimes they will found the wood with soft heart and with a hard little stick push the soft part out, than they will look for a strait piece of stick which will fit perfectly in the middle. In the bushes was hard seeds, round, and not too soft which will fit in to the hold. Than when the stick was pressed in to the hollow, seed will fly out with the pop sound. If one was close enough to get hit, seed will usually make mark which will soon turn blue. They call that pushka or rifle. If it was made right, that little pushka can hurt the bird just enough to give you time to catch it. Other time herders will make traps of flat plates of stone for a field birds or a rabbit. Flat stone plate will be suspended with the stick and some food left under as bait, rabbit or bird will come to eat, shake stick and plate will drop on unfortunate animal. All what was left was to pick them up, clean, and breakfast was there fresh and tasty. Usually they will start the fire and catch will be on the stick in no time. Little rotisserie will work and tasty aroma will fly in the air, make mouth watering and test buds in ones mouth swelling with anticipation of a tasty snack, other times they will hunt snakes and kill the numbers.

Monday, November 24, 2008

Story second part called Prelo

PRELO
In winter every night in other house Black kitchen was held Prelo. That was congregation on young and older kids and infants. Parents and grand parents. Young will clean the corn of leafs and take corn grain off the cobs. That was big time competition between young woman and man. At the same time that was the chance for a love birds to seat together and whisper sweet nothings under watchful eyes of elders. Older woman will spin the woolen thread from preslica, fine carved wooden pieces with distinctive ornaments find only in particular Family. Each Man will carve the preslica for his woman in the time prior the marriage. If his chosen one chose to accept the preslica, that was sign already to her heart have lean toward him. Also if her mother at time of presenting the preslica chose to tell young man to daughter is still to young for a spinning the thread, it was two choices: one to mother do not like the young man or to she think to her daughter is really too young to marry.
If it was good year and was lot of crop this prelo will go all winter and fall round. Girls will go to other houses same as the young man. Mothers will follow couple steps behind. Always careful to some body do not disappear in evening darkness, just to show up little bit late in the night, with some pieces of grass or hay in the near or on the clothing. Usually that will happen and then very quickly marriage was arranged.





In the summer evenings all people will seat on the stair way to a barn just down of the main House. Also build of carved lime stone as everything else. In the night that was perfect stage for young ones to flirt with each other, and for a elders to observe potential new members of the family. Stories was told by grand, grand parents. Bible was told it was not read, not so many knew how to read, infants was nursed, children were running around with bare bottoms, girls and boys will play games which imitate chores of they’re parents. Man’s of the families will seat bunched up together and talk politics, agriculture, fishing and anything else what was of they’re World importance. One will talk rest will listen and now and then jump in to conversation, or just simply puffing clouds of the home grown and self chopped tobacco from the pipes or cigarettes simply shaking they heads. Sometime Oldest will not and fall asleep still puffing the pipe or cigarette. Just few yards down the slope was Guvno. That was place with strong round piece of timber in the center of the circle of 50 to 60 feet diameter, with no stones and of hard beaten clay. Clay after so many years become hard as brick and after harvest horses was tightened for a timber and make run round and round on all to shorten reins. Under they feet was the freshly cut harvest. Running over huffs will kick grain free and after ten to twenty rounds, straw was thrown away and grain was swiped on one place and measured by bushels.
In the summer nights there was dancing. It was two kind of dances, Dances for Young




man and separately for Young woman. There was dances for married people as well as for the children. No music was played. Some time, just some time, somebody will make Diple (instrument with six or eight holes and one or two pipes) Usually that was carved of soft wood from Velebit and in log summer days in Mountain with herds they will carve. Carvings was reach and traditional. Songs was sing and ritam was bit by the foot of dancers. Leader of the dance will said now and then orders of the dance and all will pass across, in between, to the left or to the right. After the dances sweaty dancers will come back and seat on the stones, red in the faces, heart beat high, and with emotions flying high. The kids will bring the water from rain catchements and all will drink from the same pot. Most of the time sweet hearts will try to put lips at the exactly the same spot where was chosen on drinking from. That was a chance to taste him/her, to let it be known to they like each other. Sometime was hard to get the girl you liked. And there was the friend. Voluntarily kidnapping will happen. He will send her a message when she will be waited at and where. In full secret and some time if parents agree, with they’re knowledge, she will packed up and disappear in the night. Naturally they was given the ample time to take head and then oldest brother of the kidnapped girl will form the posy. It was only two ways to get in and out of village. Friends of groom will put the ambush and halt the posy. While they was negotiation and sometime fighting groom will take his price in hiding.




Tomorrow morning all was done. He will take her to his parents. They will send the oldest man in the Family to a oldest man in bride to be Family, and on beginning they will just seat and puff pipes. Than Old one will ask his counter part what is his business, what brought his to this house. Courtesies was exchanged, compliments to woman folks knowledge and worthiness. Vine was drank from bukara which was made of smreka pine wood. Sometime it will take hours before real business come to a table. And then start bargain. Our young woman is worth to us like four horses, five donkeys, three mules, 5000 lb. Of grain 15 000 lb. Of corn, 10 pigs 1000 sheep, 300 goats, so much wool, so much of material for a clothing and so on and so on. Groom representative will try to take price down always talking how she was kidnapped and who knows where she was last night, and her chastity and innocence may be ruined. Bride mother will come around and both Old ones will close their mount. Eventually she will “learn” what’s going on, and start to cry, and lelek, and accuse “bad” young man which have kidnapped her daughter of all kind of indecent behavior. Finally they will settle down on agreed price of a Dowry. Mother will then start to pack the chests of belongings to her daughter. And there was almost equivalent of the price Groom have to pay for a Bride. Usually Elders will make sure to new young family get all needed for a start of a family life on they own, or to get what the Family where they will be leaving, do not have, and is needed. In return Bride will be paid




in the things the her family needed. So on the end all involved parties get what they need the most, bride and groom can start new life together with all they need, and nobody smarter. Sometime parents will not agree to Young ones get married period. There was then only few things they can do. They will run away. They will run away and when first child was born, especially if it was male, the will be accepted back. Family can not afford to lost any male members.
In other times posy will work in earnest and chase runaways until they finally got them. Sometime there will be shutting, dead, wounded and animosities was build up. Sometime posy will kill the groom to be and girl will kill her self rather than live life without the loved one. This will build animosity bigger and bigger. So bad to after century still was fresh as the first day, sometime parents was greedy, sometime some reach person propose to a parents, but Young heart do not wanted. In any way wedding was held in the chapel of St. Juraj or in Jasenice 5km away in the main church.
Wedding was the place to future sweethearts throw the apple to each other. If girl throw during the dance apple on the guy and he catch it he accepted to be sweethearts. Same was for her if she accepted it was all right. Sometime girls was playing hard and year after year they will not accept the apples. Then one dance there will be no more apples for them. That was beginning of trouble.





Younger brothers and sisters cant get married before they’re predecessors. Now Younger’s will make pressure on parents, Older girls will cry day after day until finally somebody will come around and ask for a hand. Sometime parents will send match maker to do the job.
When that happen big stone will fall off the chest of the parents, younger in line to marry, sometime at the same time it will be twin and triple marriages in a same family. Weddings was very elaborate. Groom will have his best with hand-crafted embroidery, wide scarf as weapons belt. In the belt will be stuck two rich, in silver-smithed front loaders called Kubura, and curbed knife stilled as Osmanlias/Turks Jatagans. Sometime there will be handy little ax. Size and shape of carpenter as for a fine wood work. On the head will be the black rimed cap with red or yellow top and black tail like decoration hanging on the back. Snow white shirt of home made cotton. Shoes homemade of the Ox hide, knitted socks all the way to a knees and black pants, woolen made of pressed wool and colored with natural dye..
Bride will be dressed in most fine materials, silk, wool, embroideries and lace. Head will be under laces, they mother and grand mother have on they own wedding. Golden necklaces will be around the necks, made of doubloons of kingdoms long time lost in ancient history. Silver-smithed ornaments and wrist band. Head covers of silver, smithed in elaborate patterns held down rich hear. Hair is braided and wrapped around the head




like crown. Vushtans was skirts of homemade cotton. It was multiple skirts one above the other, making the figure of a bride full and sculpture like. Apron was white and with rich lace work on the edges. Sometimes bride will wear the costume which their grand, grand, grand mothers have wear at they’re own wedding.
All members of a Family was invited, friends, people known and unknown. Food was made and cooked days in advance. Oxen was on giant rotisserie turning above fire. Dozens of piglets, lambs, goats, was rotating next to each other. Rich aroma was spreading through village on wings of the wind, all the way to other villages. Bread was baked in family bread ovens. Grandmother will bake round bread size of a wheels on a wheel barrel, large enough to feed twenty farm workers at the same time. Cookies, cakes, soups, brudette or a fish stew, fish on gradele/BBQ…..Everything was there. Vine, lots of vine. Fig schnapps.
People will start to arrive. Musicians was playing folk songs was replacing one another. Dances, Vine was flowing as river. It was feast which ancient Romans will jealous of. More rich family was longer the feast was. Longest wedding was said to have last for a month. People was leaving , go home feed animals and than come back and continue celebrations. Sometime when Year was poor, wedding was paid off for a couple of Years, but that was something what nobody wish to spare money for.

Monday, November 17, 2008

Rovanjska village in the bay



It was mid summer. Peaks of Velebit Mountain disappeared in cotton like clouds pushed from the interior of Croatia by cold high atmosphere winds, unable to jump over or split around the highest mountaintops. Clouds engulfed Tulove Grede and Sveto Brdo and just sat here. Velebit with deep crevices and canyons to the West and cliffs to the East, covered with clouds just sat there like an old man on zenith of his life observing patiently all around.
On foot hills of Velebit on very end of Podvelebitski Canal its place on the World have find small Village of Rovanjska. First rooster’s start to voice they’re salute to a new day, Rovanjska settled in peaceful bay. Bay was nearly perfect circle open to one side to the West. About 1,5 NM wide entrance from the West, on one side was Zdrilo. Deep cut in limestone, canyon that aloud river called Zrmanja to finally enter Adriatic Sea, and on the other side was Punta Mateka. Shoreline was collection of bigger and smaller stones and on some place was some sand. All shore was bleached and washed by sea and winds. Along the shore People have erected dry walls of the stacked stones. Behind, in security and shelter, hidden, were small patches of a fertile land. Here and there was some really good plowing ground, good plowing ground means to plow can penetrate dirt maybe about 6 inches deep. Most of the time it was just pasture and patches of dirt brought there in woven
baskets called Sprtvica. There was planted seedlings and replanting. Tall Kostela three was branching wide and providing good shelter of the summer heat. It was often seen how animals and people congregate in reach shadow and cool down before the rest of the travel. Here and there was seen Chempreses, evergreens, pencil like, dark and vertical, they find the place near or on the Cemetery and in whole of Rovanjska was 10 Chempreses.
Village alone was collection of houses build of limestone. Village has tree parts. Farther to the North West was Matek’s Houses, in the middle the Roncevic Houses and on the hill farthest from the Sea was Basa Houses. In winter nights when everybody take earned rest they and gather around fire place story was told about past times.
Story pass from generation to generation said about heroic past of predecessors who fought back Venice, Turks, Tatars, Avars, Goth’s and Huns. There was tales of the predecessors that fought back, Franks when Pippin the little decide to establish the Empire of the Franks and Holy Roman Empire. There was also cousins which fought with Napoleon army and make quite well. But they was living now in that far country of France where all talk, like having strong cold. They make reach and did not dare to come back home, except when they was needed for a Governmental purposes.
Venice conquest was thrown back in the sea when they come to still Oak timber, wood from family forest in the Mountains. They was cutting family wood for a Centuries and most of a Venice was built on hammered down Oak timber from Family forests. When conditions was right man will take to a weapons and armor, seat in skiffs and set up the ambush for a Venice galleys which was passing with load of cargo bound to or from Venice. This was small return for a Oak of thousand years but was all what was left. Family did not have power and military might to fight mighty Venice. But Venetians will always come back and not small number of Man will finish in Venetian Galleys as slave oarsman. But when conditions was right men will take armor and weapons and join Uskoks of Senj in their skiffs and set an ambush. Each separate Family alone was not strong enough to take on Venetian might.
In the area of a Bay which belongs to a Roncevic Family was at the shore line
remains of Romans houses. Romans have whole Villa rustica build and thriving in the
Bay of centuries. Family ancestors many Centuries ago come to a shore on that place and stay. They chased Romans away, or Romans will chase them away, or they together will fought Illyrian tribes of Queen Teuta. Finally, love will do what weapons can not. Family Man will fall in love with either side an marry. Same thing will happen with the Romans and Illiryans. After while last names was here but population was so mixed up that nobody was pure blood any more. Family was living the way they always did. Higher on the slopes of Velebit and that what saves them.

One day, or night nobody really do know, big earthquake shake the World bad, rally bad. Mountain was grumbling hills was rolling up and down , where was Land was Sea, where was Sea was Land, where was River, River was no more. Zrmanja River can not met Adriatic Sea on previous place, and turn the flow through new opening now called Zdrilo. Roman houses went underground, docks and entire Port of flourishing Roman Community sink in the depth of the Bay. Ruins of roman buildings still can be found. Here and there broken walls will show they face from the ground and stay exposed as monument of a old glory of Romans. On the bottom was in good days visible ruins, docks, big piles of broken pottery. If you go dive today on that placer will find artifacts from that time with Roman letters, ornaments and, whole amphora’s if you are lucky. Amphora was clay pottery
made to store vine, oil, grain and anything. That was first predecessor of today modern days containers. Some elders say to it was find the Amphora’s with a lead intact and when was opened healthy vine odor was smelled and vine residue was still inside. Cups will have on the bottoms marks of manufacturer. On one was letters VIIL on the others was XVLL and others. Nobody really knew what that meant. Amphora’s most of the time will hold vine.
In the very stomach of the Bay was Chapel of St. Juraj, Many said St. Juraj was older than main cathedral of St. Peter in Vatican. If you scrub some plaster off you will find Roman letters and mosaics. It was big enough to in time of funerals or Mass complete Family will find the shelter under the roof to pray. Chapel was built in shape of cross, and main body was oriented East to West with little bell tower as on Spanish Missions in California. Carved lime stone was constructed in an arch, and small but loud bell was suspended in it. From the bell outside the bell tower was hanging the bell rope. Nobody dare to toll the bell without the reason. It was said to it was a sin and dead ancestors will not like it. Bell was tolling only for mass, marriage, Funeral or a danger. Each have distinctive toll, For a Mass it is loud and happy. Funeral toll was sad and slow tolling only on one side of the bell, danger was fast, hectic unnerving. When Chapel was build people was using material on hand and many remains of Romans buildings was used to erect the Chapel. If one scrub
the plaster of the walls. Roman inscriptions and parts of mosaics were found. On calm days, usually early in the morning, when sun start to rise behind Basa Village, and rays penetrate Seas just under right angle, (one is fishing with spear from the bow of the wooden skiff) on the bottom of the Bay, starting right in front of St. Juraj was visible ruins of old Roman dock with a stone ring from one piece of stone. Roman ships there was able safely tight down and load cargo of olive oil, grain and all what this place have for trade.
Written history of the family was one thousand year-long and spoken history was long, so long to path of a family was traced back, all the way in White Croatia and further beyond Ural Mountains in far away czar country of Russia. There was knights in big battles. There was soldiers fighting for justice and against all kind of people, yellow people with eyes which was not in level as ours, people with some strange language, people half horse half human, people with dog’s head’s, people with flat faces and no noses.
Kids will listen and in wonder try to make image of this foreigners, which was without doubt dangerous. On the way to bed, children will bunch up and none of them will try to go in the bushes to relieve themselves however in need before sleep. In the deft of the night, in their dreams all this will form armies of miracles and they will be knights in shiny armor fighting the all that critters all night long. Some time battle was so ferocious to mothers will have to get up and calm tired warriors or get them some water to drink.
Extended now and then, how family number increase. New houses was build for a young new Family, If groom was from other tribe and wants to join his wife will get some land on the outskirts of Family property, was help build the house. Both families will gather together and new house will be build in no time. In the same time elders which was not for a masonry jobs, will do carpentry and soon new furniture will be ready to move in that was the beginning of a new village. That is the way the two new villages was formed. One of Family Roncevic and other of the Family Basa.
On hilly side to the East is Basa Village, Basa are goat and sheep herders, and little farmers with poor land which was for bare sustenance, and they did not know how to swim. Potatoes and cabbage, few olive trees, and plenty of lime stone all sizes all impossible shades of gray, Washed by rain, and bleached by Bura, (strong Northern wind), salted and carved by spray of salt taken of the wave crests in the Bay, time stone was only thing which seams to really grow on that isolated land, every day villagers will go to the parcels and pick up stones, depositing them on to the dry walls or Mociras, big piles of lime stone sitting there as long a legends as old, and memories of the oldest reaching the past. Some of biggest Mociras was big as a Family House, and nobody really knew how deep underground was first layers which make kind of a foundation.
Paths, rugged as terrain through which they lead, was just passages between the walls and full of loose stones and rocks. They was not and they are not safe for unused City foot to pass there. It was difficult to pass in the day and almost impossible in the night. People which use this paths was walking with their eyes on the path, with care and no hurry. One wrong step and loose rock was enough for a painful joint. That was the reason why most of the life between villages will stop in sunset. Walking to the East South East from Roncevica village on will pass the Bunar, people have dig big hole in the ground, with big difficulties until they reach Sea level. Sea water filtered thru stones and dirt in that well and was Bochata(not salty too much) most of the time that water was used to water the animals and fields. That was place where young people will meet and congregate for a short period of time. Where first glances was exchanged and first messages was send of left under the stone.
From there, crooked path lead to a shore, to a Mulo Roncevica. There was made little dock in shallow waters, which did not stand for a long time. Strong waves of Maestral have taken it a part almost at the same time when was build. Following the shore path, lead us to a area called Obaljenica this part of a Bay was naked. Stripped of all greenery, no grass, no bushes, no Smrikas evergreens, here and there was a single leaf of grass which somehow survived and if it was not blown away by Bura then sheep’s will eat as soon as show it self. Nothing con survive on that side of the Bay when Bura blow, it was cold it was salty Bura will lift the salt from the crest of the waves and deposit all over the Obaljenica. So much salt was on the ground to sometimes in the winter under full moon Obaljenica will shine as magic field of crystals. After while path ended and passing through that dead land was possible only with utmost care. Fisherman will walk that way jumping from rock to a stone and on to the flat plate. From there about two pipes of tobacco was Zdrilo. Shallows are extended in to the Bay. Walking around the end of the Bay Zdrilo shows up in all its rugged beauty, this passage, at 44 degree 15” N and 015 degree 31 “E was connecting a Novigradsko Sea with Podvelebitski Canal. Sea water was not salty that much any more. Schools of Ground fish congregate there in strong outbound current, Zdrilo which some call Novsko and some Maslenicko is 1,5 NM long and 0,15NM wide. When after earthquake original river bed was closed, Zrmanja’s level start to raise. Soon all area where today is Novigrad, Karin, Posedarje and Maslenica was under water and river was depositing large amounts of silt and mud. When lever increase significantly and above the lowest point on today’s entrance from Maslenica side, waters of the River start to overflow and torrents was carrying everything in front of them. Soon Zdrilo was formed. Deep, green waters, not salty as Rovanjska Bay, strong current was taking sand from Novigradsko Sea to a Rovanjska Bay and across to a Seline and Strigrad. When sailing through Zdrilo today one can see the slabs of limestone laying in all directions.
Some are vertical some a horizontal. In between are slabs which lay under 45 degree angle and sill little bit farther just crunched mass of loose rocks. Red lines between the slabs was sandy and when rain wash away enough whole slab will simply slide in a Zdrilo with a big splash.

Whales pay back

South West Pacific. Fishing grounds by Papua New Guinea, Island of New Ireland. Ocean surface is deep turquoise. Sun rays penetrating deep in the water and concentrating in light dot down about forty feet or so. From time to time crazy running fish break these nature artworks. Lazy, long, wide waves, gently rising from depths, carry something hypnotic in them. Day is humid, hot, no wind, sea is
like oil in the bottle-calm.

Behind horizon, light, almost invisible track of smoke appeared where no land was. After a while, behind curvature of the Earth dark speck shows up. After a while crows nest of large tuna clipper –fishing boat become visible. Two hours after that whole ship was visible. Hull was Clipper blue, house a mid ship bright white, and mast and boom, and two cargo booms where black. Clipper bow sliced ocean with
grace and water was flipping in white foam on both sides. Stainless still cutting edge was shined of relentless flow of sea.

On the stern of the big vessel was large skiff suspended on skids by the cable connected to the mast and on skiff to the fast release hook, powered by eight cylinders CAT. To the bow of the skiff connected were lines and cables leading to the cork and chain of huge tuna net. When launched net will make circle
almost one mile in circumference.
On the top of the mast in crows nest was captain on large binoculars. Above him on the roof, were 90 miles “bird” radar. Almost twenty feet down under navigational radar, were “half mast “, place as balcony, no roof and much closer to the two stacks from main engines. There were deck boss and coffiero on another pair of binoculars.

In front of the Pilot house windows was bridge with two large binoculars. Two wooden benches were for crew to seat, while waiting to relieve two fishermen on binoculars. Only heat relief was from shipmotion, and in days such as this, it was most popular place. On Port side of the bridge was wing controls for throttle and steering in use while making set on school of fish.
“Pikieros, five to port!”
After a while comes command from crows nest: “Five to Port”.
Navigator inside bridge tried to locate birds on radar and soon he call to the Crows nest:” I got them, half hour till we arrive”
Deck boss get down from half mast and once again inspected cable, skiff man and his assistant inspected skiff.
“Stand by”
Engineers started hydraulics for winch, and bow thruster, skiff man and assistant were in the skiff. Skiff man on the controls, while assistant on the bow holds the fast release- trigger line.
Some electricity, excitement was in the air.
“There she blows, straight ahead, there she blows!” coffiero was calling.
“Hey whale is there, must be lots of bait, and if that so we might start earning our money, where is the whale must be a fish. If you see fine foomer it is skip jack but if you see splashes then is yellow fin. They both from same family but skip jack newer goes as large as tuna.” Old timers were explaining facts of life to two greenhorns.
“Stand by, Stand by”
“Five left”
“Five left”
“Slow down”
“Ahead, slow”
“Five left”
“Ten left”
“Steady as she goes”
“Five left”
“Steady as she goes”
“Stop, dammed, where did it go? “
In distance whale blow, show tail and disappeared. After a good five minutes surface broke and huge mouth opens straight in the air. Birds-pikieros were falling all around the whale swallowing bait traumatized by whale attack.
“Slow ahead, five to port”
“Steady as she goes”.
“Stand by, stand by- let it go, mola, mola, mola”
Assistant skiff man pull fast release, skiff slide down the skids and just before touching water big CAT was already belching black smoke.
“Full astern skiff, pull, pull, damn you, cant you pull stronger?”
“Speed boat in the water, speed boat in the water”
Speed boat man was in his boat since letting skiff go and waiting on his opportunity in action. Speed boat was rapidly sliding on the starboard side, hanging on the cable and quick release. Trick was to hit the water, having engine running at just right speed ahead, to boat sail same speed of the mother ship, steering to the right at just right angle so when speed boat is free and hit the water , turn toward the stern, jump over the cork in the net and scare fish in already closed part of the net.
Skiff stern dig deep and almost rooster tail of water shows. Assistant was letting lines from the bow go and skiff man- turns the skiff for 180 degrees. Now two vessels were pulling in opposite directions.
“Three quarter speed, what sonar says? Left, left, more left, full speed ahead, left more left half speed, slow down, and steady as she goes. Stop. Full a stern! Get that line on the bow, hurry, hurry, we don’t have all day, pass the line down, on the winch, deck boss; get the orca, faster, faster. God job, winch man pull in, slow, slow, let the hook pass by, god job, you down on cork line transfer line to the cork line capstan and pull- good, good enough”
Captain was hanging almost falling out through window, instinctively trying to see all at same time.
“Get the stern line on the davit’s hook, winch man, tira, tira, full speed, they in, they in, must be at least two hundred tons. Tuna and Skippy’s. Come on boys, here is our money in the bag. Pull, pull, and dam this winch, I can pull faster by my hands. Hey don’t smoke out, ok, slow, slow, slower, and easy”
“What was that, oh my god we got the whale in the net. “
Crew all over the vessel lined up on the port side and watched whale rolling slowly and blowing.
They all knew possible results: loss of the net and dead whale, loss of the net and wounded whale or free the whale some how and catch the fish. No body knew, no body donned, how to free whale from the net it was million dollars question.
More and more cable was winched in and crew start to gather on the stern deck. This was slowest part of the set. Winch and winch man was in action. Rest of the crew was idle.
“Jump, jump, they will escape through the doors under the ship.”
One by one crew was jumping in the sea at port side barely missing wide spread cables. Point was to make so much splash and noise to tuna attempting to run, turn’s back and stay.
“One by one, where are my people? It’s no body on the deck? Cook, jump cook, assistant engineer jump, jump you too, it’s our money”
“Hey you guys hurry up this side and jump again “
Helicopter pilot, that was in the air for all this time, (it was veteran Bell 47), flying low over the water do his part in keeping fish in the net. There was a trick: as pilot watch fish, must at same time estimate height of the waves, fly up or down, left or right. If he make mistake pontoon will hit the wave and helicopter will flip on the side. This was deadly game, ultimate money making game. Finally ordered to
he landed on the hely pad on roof of the pilot house.
Deck boss and skipper were ready with cable sling. Soon rings from bottom of the purse seine net were visible and emerging from depth beside of the vessel now laying dead in the water. Winch men further slow down the hydraulics of the winch. Rings are creeping closer to the surface.
“Some more, some more”
Rings touched huge pulleys on the davit .From each ring two chains were hanging straight down to the chain mended for the lower side of the net.
“Two, I need two in the water”
At same time skiff was moving to the starboard side and tow cable was passed over to them. Slowly, they moved ninety degrees to starboard and hold the ship just enough not to drift over the net. Two fisherman jump over the side and were drifting by the chain waiting on cable sling to be passed and slide down the rings. This was dangerous. With so many fish in the net, if something goes wrong sinking chain easy can kill somebody, or cut the limb. It was no tolerance for mistake. Finally sling slide and splash on the surface. Two fishermen in the water come to and holding for ring chain clambered on sling. Jumping, moving from side to side they pushed sling all to deeper and deeper.
“Tell the skiff to slow down, chain is opening too much”
“Skiff slow down, some more, OK”
Current was strong, net in the depth was caught in second current and was spreading chain.
“Two more man in the water, hurry up, hurry up.”
Sling all of a sudden surge upward and for a moment both man jump upward. Two more body’s splash in the water, and climb on the sling.
“Tell the skiff to stop”
“Jump, use your weight, jump some more, OK, winch pull, pull, watch your legs, pull, jump, jump, be careful, move your arms upward, jump, pull, pull some more, OK. We got it. It’s tight. You in the water, what you waiting for. This is not a pleasure cruise. Get on the deck.”
Crew climb by the stairs build in the side of the vessel on the deck. Winch man was rolling cable from drum to the drum of the winch until come to swivel. Swivel was there to allowed separation of cable.
Deck boss separate swivel and cable. On now free ends he connected cable sling that lead from double hook through special device called gun. Name come from its look-as anti aircraft gun. Controlled by hydraulics, it will raise up or drop down as winch man needed and in same time double will lift. Rings will then slide from cable trough them on gun. Once all rings were on the gun, sling was taken off the chain and pulled up on the deck. Inch and a one half rope were through the Puretich power block. It was shackled for triangular end of the net.
“OK, let’s roll”
Navigator now took over winch controls, crew scrambled on the net pile. Cork man and his assistant will stock cork in such way, to when net slide in the water, will not get tangled. In the middle of the net were two men their backs toward the winch, three men were on the stern side and chain man and assistant were on the chain and rings. That must to be done just right. If mistake was made and chain or
rings get fouled; it will cost them lots of mending and down time. Deck boss was tending to the rings and reconnecting cable from two drums for roll back on single drum. From the hook of the port side cargo boom line was spreading in two ways making triangle and somewhat protecting chain man and bow side
net man of flying rings. They have short time to stock the net, if for some reason net collapse, fish will start dying and sinking to the bottom of the net, making job more difficult and dangerous.
“Watch out, rolling”
Power block pull, and net start climb upward almost forty feet, pass through and start rolling steadily downwards. Deck boss set the triangle over net deck boundary so can be connected to winch cable again.
“Here we go, roll faster”
Black net was streaming over power block as waterfall. First was tiny mesh called twenty four. This will be for almost first third of the net. It was light and easy to stock, that is if was no wind.
It was steady work for next fifteen minutes, no problems, black mountain was grooving on the stern, yellow corks neat, chain flat and square , rings with Samson sling through all turned in same direction, as no turns in different directions was allowable.
“Skiff pull forty five on the stern, give me bow thruster to the right, more, more, OK”
Net on the stern was pulling ship in direction of the circle as skiff and bow thruster were holding it open.
“Faster power block, tighten the small tire to hold the net, OK.”
“Middle, middle buoy just floated through power block. “
Net was now getting thicker, twain was now on ,passing from 36 to 64, in ten more minutes if all is ok , bunch will emerge where net is strongest one. Free floating net was tightening and whale was kind swimming in tight circle. Out side net was other whale, floating just out of reach of the net.
“Let go bow line” helicopter pilot let go and net tighten further around the fish.
Now was bunch mesh coming on board and hydraulics of power block was straining under the weight.
“Watch out, tuna goes up, watch out”
Thick dark blood start dripping from power block as large fish was squeezed through small opening.
“You on the bow, watch out, head up there she goes. You dummy, sift the net, not left, right, more right.
There hold this together, let her slide down to your feet, now open and throw her out, hurry up, hurry up, I don’t have all day. Dammed my mama will do better, Ok, greenhorn, throw this garbage out. Be careful greenhorn, this thing falling from power block can slice you open or kill you if you lucky.”
Net was coming in, in steady roll, skiff was already making preparations for coming about.
“Skiff , come along side, take drums for fill up, we might need them”
Empty drums were passed in the skiff and two men were busy slinging them on their port side on such
way to water can be poured in to keep skiff in counterbalance with weight on his starboard side.
Whale was on the surface .Her dark body was laying motion less. Head was (just by the steps amid ship turned toward the ships bow while tail was by the stern , almost by the rudder. Animal was huge. Right fin was by her body captured between her and hull , left fin was between net and body. Whale lay motion less and only blow from blow hole were more rapid. Poor thing most likely didn’t know what happen to it, and what to do.
“Put the jocker on the stern net, pull in, some more, that’s it”
Skipper and deck boss stud on the side . Deck boss Peruvian and skipper look at each other.
“We don’t have enough power in power block, or in the double to pull the tail up. Baleen must be at least thirty forty tons, what we are going to do?”
“Whatever we do, can’t kill her, that’s bad luck, and by the way it’s against the law.”
“But how to get reed of her. Can’t lift her, cant kill her, if she dies, will rip the net, will lost the fish, and will be working for nothing for days.”
“Madre de Dios, Skipper what if she move and rip the net?”
“I don’t know, I have newer have one in the net, shit, I didn’t see to it was two of them, one was always down.”
“OK, all of you any ideas?”
Crew look at each other . In Adriatic sea where most of them come, was no such thing as whale.
No one knew how to deal with. Assistant engineer was on the deck and spoke up.
“Skipper, let me go in the water, we might succeed, but please do what I ask you ,OK?”
“Go to your engines, what do you know about?”
“Skipper, I was fisherman before, at least we might try, otherwise ….”
“OK , but if you get hurt I can’t help you”
“If I get hurt , most likely I won’t need help”
Assistant jump in the sea, swam to the cork. Whale was motion less. Loud blows at blow hole was all letting people know to she was alive. He swam closer. Huge eye, size of basketball , dark brown,followed him as he approached stranded animal. Through the water eerie sound of other whale was penetrating assistant body. Whale in the net cry out in deep rumbling sound heard under water and through hull of
the ship. People lined up on Port side . No body ewer seen such animal , except on TV. It was something eternal, awe struck, some crossed them self, others were silently praying.
Assistant touched whale, no motion. Touched again, no motion. Skin of the whale was soft as baby skin.
He come beside her and checks the fin.
“Skipper , I need you to loosen bow cork line.”
“Are you crazy? Weill lost the net if cork line brake “
“Just let the cork line slowly about six feet”
“Ok winch man ,six feet slowly”
Net loosen up and bow cork slide toward whale chin.
“Some more, bout three feet”
“Three feet”
Assistant was pushing cork down the whale chin. Big eye was following him. Feeling was almost as he can see the soul of the animal. Eerie feeling. If hair was not wet on his head it will sprung straight up.
“Oh my God, what did I get my self in to, if she moves all too slightly I am dead man.”]
He grabs for the left fin and this thing was huge, must be at least ten feet in it.
“I can’t lift this by my self, if I put the sling she will start trashing” Big eye was still on him. Something pass through his mind as flash, unconsciously , he put both hands under the huge flipper and try to lift.
“”Are you out of your mind, you can’t do that, move away, it going to kill you” bellowed skipper from the deck.
And then miracle happens. Whale almost as reading his mind move flipper. Slowly, gently he pushes some more straight up. Some kind of connection was made between two intelligent brains, but I can’t tell that to any body for risk of being called crazy. He scratched fin and whale lifted some more. Cork easily slide under and now flipper was free on the left side.
“Thanks God, he did it, he did it. If some body tell me about in the bar Ill call him Liar, my God I can’t believed”
“Let bow line go some more”
Assistant happy with first success now was by the huge chin. Blows were coming all to faster. Whale understood to this miniature human being attempting something to help her. He reached and put the hand under chin and scratched lightly. Humongous head move up. He pushed some more. Head rise some more. Some mutual understanding, something for those witnessing, unbelievable was happening in front of their very eyes.
“Let go cork line some more, she holding her head up, cork will slide down and under”
“Let go some more, more, some more, more, stop now”
Assistant push chin up, and whale responded, lifting huge mass. Eye almost human all this time was on the man. He felt as he can see in the depth of the whale’s soul. He knew he will not be hurt, and she knew she will be free soon. Cork, slide under the chin, more and more toward the fin, finally, almost half of the body was free. Whale was still without any motion. He removed his hand from the chin and huge head come slowly down and weight submerged cork. That was all he can do. If tail or other
flipper gets tangled in the net that will be end for whale, net and assistant.
He swam back few feet.
“Please go over, you are free, go swim, go, go” Assistant was praying silently. Whale in that moment put more weight on her head and start to sink head down. It was just as scuba divers go under, bend for ninety degrees and than straight legs up, weight and power of gravity did the rest. Whale inhaled one more time, tail went straight up. It was lumbering at least six feet above deck. And then…. Without
motion she slide in to the depth.
“Hurray, hurray, you did it, son of a bitch, we did it, I can’t believed, it’s gone. Get back on the deck, we must hurry now."
Few yards from the ship whale surfaced accompanied by the other smaller one; through the hull one can hear them sing song.
Crew snap to the work and soon brailing was done, net piled on the net pail, cable connected and pulled where needed.
Excited crew still didn’t believe their good luck. Assistant was on wet deck adjusting what needed, transferring water from hold to hold.
“Stand by”
“Half speed ahead”
“Stand by”
“Five left”
Life was good. Life was very good. Two hundred fifty tons of prime tuna and large skip jacks were in the cold water in last moments. In tropical waters honeycomb start to develop real fast, that’s decaying of fish meat and start tom produce ammonia and degradation are rapid.
“Steady as she goes, five left, speed boat in the water, steady, five left, more, steady as she goes”
All eyes were on the next school of fish. No body was thinking about the whale and spirits were high.
“Let go, let go”
Rumble on the stern. Skiff splash in the water, speed boat jump the cork and start making tight star
board circle’s , skiff was pulling, bellowing smoke.
“Fish is in, speed boat- move toward the skiff about twenty yards, left, left, more left, full speed, slow down, dead slow. Stop, full astern. Stop. Hurry guys, we got them, hurry”
Hydraulic was screaming, straining.
“Jump, damn it, jump, where is my people, jump, good , they turn away”
“Skipper look to our starboard” called Navigator.
On other side of the ship two whales big and smaller one were trashing on the surface, diving, jumping and flipping in the air, blowing, making ruckus. Crew was still with their mouth wide open. Whales were scaring large school back in the net.
“O Dio mio, Santa Maria of Guadalupe, Majko Bozja”, Spanish and Croatian language mixed with English.
People didn’t believe what they see. It must to be divine business. How otherwise explain what whales did.
Whales , split and smaller one submerged . After a while she blow bunch o bubbles under water just where stern triangle of the net were, and tuna turn back in the net.
This was going on all the way till rings closed. Fish was brailed in the holds and another three hundred tons were in cold water. Two sets and almost half load. If fishing and weather continue this way, they might go home faster than ewer before.
But for to day that was it. It was already after sunset. Skipper was on the stern deck with glass of Chivas.
Cook lighted BBQ, deck boss was splicing cable worn out in winching through the rings, ring men replaced rings, rest of the crew mended holes in the net, and all talking in same time.
“Did you see that?”
“I can’t even talk about in Port they will tell me to I am crazy, but I know what happen today,”
“I can’t believed, they actually did all what’s has to be done , they split and did on two sides.”
“Might be souls of dead fisherman in them, and helped us” mumbled deck boss and cross him self .
Dinner was ready, job was done, all was ready for tomorrow. They went in the galley and excited chattered away about today. Vine was flowing , and tiredness soon takes over. One by one they retired in their bunks. Merciless bell ring at four o’clock, main engines were running already, coffiero was already up, skipper finishes his coffee and climbed up in crows nest, Navigator with coffee in the hand was
stretching on wing station.
“Slow ahead”
“Stand by, stand by, hurry up, stand by”
It was break neck speed when all run to their stations. Sandwiches in the hands, speed boat man, milk in the hand was dropped off and was trailing on stern quarter.
“Let go, mola, mola, mola!!”
And again whales did help them, crew seen it , cross them self, pray or just look each other. This was not no more accident. Whales know what they do.
Ring were up with the sun, another two hundred fifty tons were in cold water.
‘Engine, are you able to take some more, how is refrigeration?”
“Skipper, you get them- will freeze them, don’t you worry, all we need- just send me some more people down here to help turning the shut.”
“Are you sure? You can get three hundred now?”
“Yes, just let me know when to start dumping water”
Three hour later it was eight hundred tons in total in cold water. Additional generators needed forremaining ice machines were humming, all ice machines were running , and engineers were pushing system to the limits. Important was not to freeze surface , as in that case ice will prevent interior of the fish to be frozen, and honeycomb will develop.
“Stand by”
“Let go, let go”
“Chief start pumping. We got them again, whales help us again.”
Engineers were up all night and now were transferring cold sea water from already chilled holds in empty ones. Brain from empty ones was transferred in chilled ones. While on the top they stock the net, engineers were making space to save brain and as much of cold sea water as possible. They will need all they can save if fishing continue as now.
“Are you ready to receive?”
“Send them down, were ready”
Steady stream of fish flowed through aluminum shut in holds, filing them rapidly.
“Two eighty tons full, Skipper”
“OK, we got at least that much, can’t you make some more space in other tanks?”
“I got two eighty tons empty, we might squeeze some more in bow, hey tell the guys to put in walk in food freezer, there we can put some two tons also if stocked properly”
“Skipper we are full to the max, let put some fish in walk in , you will have to give me the time to freeze fish, before we get in the Port. Plan three days to get cold and hard”
Two days of fishing, 1120 tons in the holds, two tons in walk in freezer, life was good, life was very good.
No body remembered lunch, they jump over, and was time for dinner already. Skipper, navigator and both engineers were on the wind station enjoying vista of the moon , calm seas and success.
“You know I can’t tell the boss to we are full, he wont believe us” Skipper say.
“We still don’t know where will go to unload” navigator.
“Fish is hardening but is not ready for unloading for at least two more days” engineer.
“What’s about to we “fish” our way up the Equator and when were by Chook, we call the boss and tell
him were full. On that way hell call us in Guam, will be too far away to go in Pago Pago.”
“Sound good” skipper gets on PA and address crew ”Guys this is fastest trip I ewer made, will “fish” our way to Guam, no body will trust us any way. About the whales don’t talk, everybody will say to were drunken crew, clean the ship well, and get all ready for unloading. If chief need help do it, this is fastest money were ever made, make sure we preserve them in our checks.”
Skipper get the bottle of Chivas Royal, navigator and engineers poured full glasses, skipper turn toward the whales blowing near by.
“God thank you for two of our friends, whom paid us back for our kindness, with fastest fishing trip we ewer had, please keep good care of them and don’t let them die. Amen.”
With those four men raised glasses drink toast and dump rest in the Ocean, for all fishermen on Happy fishing grounds. Sun was sinking on the west,
Ocean was bright gold color, two whales blow few times and submerged. Night was falling fast.
In the morning- whales were no more.

Sunday, November 16, 2008

Almost dead

Mid nineties, we were fishing by Papua New Guinea in international waters .For few days fishing was good on foomer and then will turn around and work on Palo (log or driftwood); We were collecting all driftwood we can and setting radio buoys so we can find them in the evening. Some of them were promising with fish around, others will tow closer and tight together in rafts. On that way will al the bait from plankton to small fish gather and attract bigger ones that will stay and attract on the end of food chain tuna or their cousin skip jack.
In last couple of days we catch almost three hundred tons of mix mostly yellow fin and skippys. Today we mark one log and after whole day of search for foomer we were on the way back to it. Crew tired of hot sun, no wind, three sets on miserable schools of tuna, was resting in the galley watching videos and waiting to be called to hook up the log and set submersible light till morning. About eleven o’clock bridge called to stand by with grappling hook. Ship slow's down and drifted along side large drift wood cowered with barnacles. Deck boss throw the hook and guys brought buoys quickly on the deck. Radio was turned off, flash light also, and log set on long rope to drift by the ship. On the davit pulley was set drop light some twenty feet deep and turned on. Dark, almost black water of night Pacific turned green and whole new world open to us. Sharks, mahi mahi, yellow tails, sea snakes, small almost dark brown fish (excellent for BBQ) feed on the sea growth. Small crabs crawl all over the log, on sonar deep down was almost black red indicating to large school must be under the ship. It was known to with first down fish will come to the surface and when light is transferred to the pangita- small skiff, fisherman was able to make set and catch the fish. Only problem was- sometime was more yellow tails than what we were after, meaning lots of cleaning and separating as we don’t get paid for yellow tails. Crew run in the bed as bell will ring at three thirty in the morning. Last walk through engine room and pipe alley, check the levels and oil as well as temperatures in fish holds with fish, I was a sleep before I hit the pillow.
What seems to me just few minutes after man at night watch woke me up. I make cup of coffee and walk the outside bridge on wing station to check if any fish is visible. With coffee cup in hands I walk in to the bridge and check sonar, it was crowded. My estimate about three hundred tons if not better. Skipper just woke up and checks sonar making happy face. Navigator was outside smoking his first of the day.
Crew was awakened without the bell and word spread fast about sonar findings. Pangero- small skiff man was making all ready to be lowered in the water from stern starboard davits. I started hydraulics and heavy pangita was soon bobbing in the water .Turbo charged Yanmar pushed pangita around stern and pangero-little skiff man drop his submersible light in the water. For few minutes both lights were making light under the surface, than ship lights were turned off, not only submersible but all outside lights except navigational lights. Main engine s running already, sheep slowly moved away. Big benefit of variable pitch prop was to at slow speed almost no wash was made.
Skipper climbed in the crows nest: “Stand by”
Now was waiting game for last track of night and first track of down on the east. That was the time when was best to make a set. Skipper always must think about currents especially when in straits as today. No land was near but ocean currents split waters in three some times four layers, that they call today thermo clines. If not careful sometime stronger bottom currents will twist the net so bad to will make big round timber like pail what we call roll up. That was sure way for Port and week of work on net yard in Casamar.
“Let it go- mola, mola, mola”
Skiff on the stern pull end of the net and one more set started. Rings of purse seine net were up with sun, and crew was stocking net on stern in nice organized way. Chain and ring men were stocking rings, Cork man with his assistant on the cork. Navigator on the Puretich-Power block adjusting the speed as needed and coordinating with skiff about what way to pull the stern. Best thing was when net was coming in at Ninety degrees at port side. Rings didn’t dangerously fly, net was free of the prop and rudder. Now and then some yellow tails will come over, showering crew on net pail with meat, guts and blood. Jelly fish was abundant in this waters and was no surprise to somebody will cuss or yell and run under the fire hose, to wash him self of. If it was Portugese Man of war, some people will fall in shock. Majority will spray necks, faces and arms with WD40 or diesel that seems to help.
Almost at last third of the net more and more yellow tails were coming to the power block. Soon net was green and yellow with them. Net crew will tear them out from mesh, preventing the net to get dirty and stinky. That will make problems if school was in the net tomorrow; spoiled rotten fish of today has possibility to spoil tomorrow catch. Last section of the net was called bunch. Thicker and thicker mesh was going through power block and more and more calls:
“Watch out, skip in power block, middle forward”
“Watch out, tuna in power block, close the net, there, this one coming to you”
People will attempt to close net and make slide of the mesh landing large fish in front of them. But sometime was hanging by the gills and flipping over the power block thirty forty feet above un hook it self and free fall head first. In that case crew will scramble for position away, but it was hard to decide where as ship was rolling under swells and pull of power block.
“Watch out fall!”
Crew scramble, it was close this time, worst position was on front toward the deck as not much space was left to move. Net was rolled in on good pace and all was right when…
“Watch out fall”
One large Big eye tuna has been hooked up just by gills and on the way over power block get loose and start its free fall. Crew scramble, man on the corner by the chain didn’t have no more space to go and try to slide on to the deck when fish with open mouth hit him in the shoulder. Both have fallen on the deck. He shakes violently and tries to get up; eyes were wide open shoving just white, then he collapsed.
From the crows nest Skipper bellowed on PA:
“What are you guys waiting for, get back on the net roll, roll, hey you on the deck, get up and back on the net this is not a Hilton in Guam to take rest.”
Deck boss approached man lying on the deck and try to move him. In that moment blood start oozing through ripped rain jacket. Deck boss run to PA and scream:
“He is open, bleeding, It has cut him open, and I need help!”
I have heard on PA and run up with Assistant from wet deck, Skipper broke all records in getting down from crows nest.
“Navigator, get the winch men on power block, Chief you and Assistant help me to take him in galley. Navigator get medical box will need a lot. Rest of you get on the net; get it in as fast as you can.”
We took the man in the galley on the table. Cut rain jacket, cut T shirt, blood all over. Breathing was laboring and hard. Cook was standing on the side paralyzed by scene.
“Get water boilin, a lot, will have to wash all this tuna vomit from the wound.”
Cook still didn’t move Skipper swing around and flop one with open palm over cook’s face that get him moving. On the deck power block was pulling in with full force. Power block stop and deck boss start making the bunch or sack.
On PA:” About 150 tons mix”
Assistant run on wet deck and start conveyer belt, shut was set already and fish pour down. In heart bit all was in holds, net stocked on net pail, skiff lifted, and main engines running.
Skipper and I were washing wound from ingredients of stomach of fallen tuna. Man was laying un conscious breathing was hard and laborious. Now was full size of the wound clearly visible. Lover jaw of the tuna has find soft spot between neck and shoulder, snap open collar bone and rip him open half way down of the rib cage. His lungs was visible, broken ribs were protruding from ripped off flesh; tiny clear membrane was all protecting his lung and heart from exposure. We look at each other, used on light wounds such as rip of fingers, cuts on hands and legs, shark bites it was normal, but this is huge, ominous wound, we knew to even surgeon will have hard job to put this tighter.
“Navigator get on the radio and call Australia, they closest one ask for medical advice, also get under way and set course for Rabaul,they closest one with hospital. I want to know ETA. Transmit that to Rabaul and Australians. Keep calling until somebody answer, I need to know what to do.”
Navigator run up to the bridge, both mains were running at maximum RPM’s, Bridge radio was connected with PA and whole crew was able to hear frantic calls going out every five minutes.
In Galley man on the table was coming and loosing consciousness, interestingly didn’t bleed as profusely as on beginning. Cut flesh was almost blue, brownish lungs were still pumping air, and heart was contracting rapidly. Skipper has never had any medical education, mine was just from military service, but brother of mine has studied medicine and some of his studies must get in to me. Now we have to do something and I took the charge.
“Skipper, if we want to give him a chance we have to isolate wound and sterilize and then close it best we can.”
“What we can do, what we can do?”
“Ok, will flush wound with watered down scotch so not to make burns and flesh to die. All this yellow powder Sulfa whatever, will pour in the wound and on the edges of the wound. I need all clear kitchen wrap you can find, bring duct tape as many as we have, trash bags, and bed sheets of linen if possible. Make sure to linen is clean and run it on high in the dryer. Get to it we don’t have time.”
Water was boiling already in all big pots; crew of duty was standing by for what ewer we might need. With care we washed wound off all impurities, dried it as much as possible. we diluted scotch wit water and washed again. We used all hydrogen peroxide and iodine. From now on when we change dressing only booze will be at hand. Clear wrap was stretched over his inner cavity. We than push his rib cage as close as we can. Problem was broken ribs were protruding every where, and was possible to make more damage forcing it together, but we didn’t have choice. Some how we succeeded in closing him up. Linen was ripped in bandages while we put another clear kitchen wrap over the wound outside. Than we wrapped him up best we can with linen. Wounded man was moaning and groaning at each move. Over linen we wrapped him with trash bags and with duct tape stick all this together. Now all what was left wait and pray.
We clean kitchen as much as possible, people brought mattress and carefully transfer him on. They slide him in the side under one of short dinner tables, cover him with blankets. One man will always be with him and alert on any changes.
Skipper went on the bridge; I check engine room and fish temperatures in holds. Both EMD GM’s twelve cylinder engines were screaming under full load. All ok and I went on the bridge.
Ship now at auto pilot, one man on night watch, Navigator was plotting position and course to Rabaul. Deck boss maintaining radio calling out to whom ewer listen.
Finally Radio Australia from Port of Darwin answered.
“Radio Australia, Radio Australia, this is fishing vessel WYZ 325689, this is fishing vessel WYZ 325689, we need medical help, and we need medical help now , Ower!"
“This is radio Australia, Darwin; This is Radio Australia Darwin, what is your problem, repeat, what is your problem?”
Deck boss explained situation and give ours position as well as course.
“Fishing vessel WYZ325689, stand by will get doctor to talk to you, maintain your course.”
Time was ticking awfully slowly for us waiting answer. After some time radio crackled again:
“Fishing vessel, we have contacted Royal Australian Navy and hospital in Darwin. Please stand by.”
Again agonizing long wait. Minutes turned in centuries.
“Fishing vessel, this is Dr. Mike Richardson I am surgeon in Darwin’s hospital, please explain situation”
Skipper gives microphone to me.
“Doctor, tuna with open jaw has ripped open through collar bone, rib cage open. No profuse bleeding, Lungs and heart appear in OK condition, we wash out all tuna vomit using diluted scotch, insert kitchen clear wrap after this yellow powder Sulfa whatever , clear wrap again , linen bandages , trash bags over , keeping him warm and without much moving , please your advice?”
On the other side was silence. We look at each other???
“Fishing vessel do I understand right, you have man with open rib cage on board?”
“That is affirmative Sir, please give instructions!”
Again silence on the other side.
“Fishing vessel, this is Australian Royal Navy we listening at your frequency, our surgeon is here, Doctor here talk to them, ok I am dr. Stephanopoulos in situation you are in you did all right. Make sure to he don’t bleed and from time to time let him drink some red wine, not white, red. Do not feed him any hard food, don’t give him anything what produce gases, honey will be ok. Keep him warm and will be back to you.”
Radio Darwin called again:” Fishing vessel, This is Radio Darwin, we have no vessels we know about in your vicinity, we keep calling, please stay away from this frequency and listen for our calls, use your other radio and frequency of your choice and try to call on your own. Also use your EPIRB to send signal, world maritime organization will soon contact you and all ships close to you, we have talk to already”
Whole night we worked radios, calling, but it was as we are alone on the whole world. We were outside shipping lines, no traffic, nothing of military interest; even chards were last updated in late 1800ts.
Ether was empty, stars were peacefully blinking, moon shining, ocean was calm as giving us a break.
She was sailing at full speed in unknown future. Morning come all too early for tired people. We check wounded in galley, he has come through and was conscious. We explain him what was going on, all he wanted is to we call his home and tell them what happen.
Skipper gets on the radio phone and after while he was talking to his mother.
“Fishing vessel, this is Royal Australian Navy, we have no vessels in vicinity, no merchant vessels in your area, and your best is to maintain your course. We have one supply ship with surgeon and helicopter on other side of Papua New Guinea, they ordered to change course in your direction, also Papua New Guinea Navy is alerted on your situation, make sure you lay your fishing gear down , you cant be ready for fishing in territorial waters. You have five days to Rabaul from your present position, if you and our supply ship maintain speed; ETA shall be three days from now. Keep us posted on temperature of wounded, change his dressings, use honey if you have no other means to sterilize wound. God speed and calm seas, we all pray for you”
“Fishing vessel this is Radio Darwin, maintains radio watch, send us hourly patient situation, will have doctor stand by for you, God speed and God bless”
Ship was churning water, she was making speed as new, and crew was kind of silent, standing watch in engine and on the bridge. First day. Second day. Wounded temperature was steady and that was only good news. Wound was clean and didn’t look infected.
Third day in the morning, crew was on all binoculars from mast to the bridge. About eleven in the morning radio cracked and broke silence:
“Fishing vessel, this is Royal Australian Navy supply ship, we see you on radar, please continue in same direction, we sending helicopter to you to pick wounded up. See you soon”
In half hour Australian helicopter was buzzing us and Skipper sends our Bell 47 in the air. But Australian was too big to land on us.
“Fishing vessel, this is Royal Australian Navy helicopter, we can’t land on you, will send down man and basket, have wounded ready for to be transferred in the basket.”
Man was already on the way down, hanging precariously on the cable, pilot maintained speed and elevation, and then he was there, quick hand shake and wounded was strapped in basket and on the way up. Australian was next with wounded man documents.
Still sailing in same course, we were waiting on radio call.
After a while:” Fishing vessel, this is Australian supply ship surgeon, your man is alive only thanks to what you have done, I think this is first time in medical records to such material was used in procedure, but I will sure give that to R A Navy surgeon general, Will keep you posted at any changes. We changing our course now for Darwin, long range helicopter will be stand by , weather permitting to pick us up at least day from shore and speed up arrival in hospital. Good day Gentleman and well done.”
“This is fishing vessel, thanks Royal Australian Navy, and God bless you.”
Wounded was treated in Darwin’s hospital, after three months was flown home. For all this time he was being paid his share of catch, and crew was working one man short for all this time. Six months more and fully recovered he was flown back and met the ship in Guam.

Saturday, October 25, 2008

Calm seas

Calm seas, bright moon high in the sky. Surface of South West Pacific is color of liquid silver. Tuna clipper effortlessly changing position, on the bridge man on the watch. Lights are off, except on radar and compass. In galley only two seat and watch old tape. In engine room, I assistant engineer on the watch made routine walk through the engine room and pipe ally. If I don’t pass through and reset dead man alarm within twenty five minutes alarm will first start to go off in Chief engineer cabin, and if it is not silenced main ship alarm will go off. Most of the crew already sleep, tired of six sets made today. First was on the drift wood and bell ring at three o’clock in the morning, they finished last one about midnight.
I just made last refrigeration adjustments and pick up the trash to throw overboard. When yesterday fish holds were drained, remains of fish were flushed in pipe alley and must be thrown away before reaching bilge pump suction strainer. It was not hard and I liked those moments of peace and moon shine on surface of the sea.
Smooth sailing was best thing sailor can want. Dead man alarm reset and I climb two flights of stairs to the stern deck. Bag in the hand I approach gunwale .Ocean was beautiful. In the darkness of the night surface of the sea merged with dark sky. Moon way was wide, and shimmering, seas calm. Monotonous rumor of water from the bow, Stars twinkled and appeared /disappeared. Satellite drifted over the heavens, falling star with the tail smoke out in silence.
I swing and throw the bag that disappeared at stern. And then it happens. Shipp suddenly roll, side to side. White water rush over the stern. Next I know I surfaced behind the stern. It was no sense to yell. No body will hear me. Ship stern light’s slowly getting dimmer, smaller and finally become just dot on horizon that was awfully close. Tennis shoes soaked water and become weight pulling my legs down. I have thought for a moment and decided to be no need for shoes while swimming.
“Ok, Ok, calm down. It is no end of the World! When alarm goes off they will start search.” I thought about. My crew will find out to I am missing and get in search pattern.
“Ok, how long was I on the deck, five, ten minutes? Two minutes from dead man alarm, that make twelve, they have thirteen more minutes till alarm goes off. Half hour until they search the vessel and count crew, this makes forty five minutes. Navigator must plot curse, calculate current, calculate winding, and develop search pattern. This will take another thirty minutes. Oh man this is awfully long time. They are sailing at ten knots an hour. It will take them almost twenty miles away!”
In my head someplace behind my thinking mind, surviving mode was taking over.
“I must not panic, swimming don’t make no sense. Best is to lie on the back float and breed normally. This will sustain me for a long time, tennis shoes, ok lets tight shoelaces together. They float, it will help however slightly. Shirt and shorts I must keep. In the morning will become hot, I don’t want sun directly on my skin. What else do I have with me? Something is heavy in back pocket. Flash light. Lets see … It don’t work any more. Right, Mr. Murphy you really work overtime tonight! But it might come handy if… Oh shut up, don’t think like that, lets see, do I bleed any place, no, ok that’s good. No blood, nothing to attract sharks. Now lets see what did I learn how to survive in situation like this.”
Slowly drifting on the surface in darkness of the Pacific, hoping they will find me my working brain was performing well. Sub consciousness was sending signals to something must be done now to survive. But I was thousands of miles from closest shore, up was high and down was deep. It was no place to be and I was there. Moments before I was in engine room, now swimming in the biggest bath tub on the World.
“No, don’t let the panic settle in. They will come and pick me up. They will come and pick me up.”
With this forced in mind, I have stretched my self as wide as I can, relax, and sea did a great job of keeping me afloat. My body was rolling with the waves. It was no crested waves, just dead roll of the sea, long smooth waves. I will feel when is approaching me. My feet will start to go higher, than my knees, my torso, and than will all start all over again. Waves were floating me as coconut branch on the surface.
“This is good. No crests, my mouth stay clean and nose and I can breathe easy. Problem is with the morning, temperature increases and wind sometime pick up. Let’s hope it won’t happen to me today, I don’t need that. What is the time; three in the morning o they must be going crazy now. Cussing me and searching for me. Most likely still didn’t get to them to I might be swimming someplace behind. Boy is Skipper going to be mad. I have ruin his day already, he must stop fishing, burn diesel to find me and if he don’t find me can you think about tons of paper work one day in port he will have to fill up. Oh boy is he is mad, royally. But newer mind that. This is the time they shall be already in search mode. Lets see, three o’clock, make turn, search pattern is three miles to port and than half mile in my direction, turn to starboard and run six miles turn in my direction half a mile and so forth. God help me it will take most of the day to come where I go for a swim. Ok what will I do if helicopter fly over? Bell 47 is slow but great for search, my hair is black, ocean is blue, and I don’t think he will see me. Ok, Ok what is the color of my shirt, dark blue, my favored color? If I knew, should wear white one. Oh shut up, you are stupid. If you knew? Who will knew something will happen in calm seas. Well one thing is good, I have lots of fat and fat is lighter than water; this will keep me a float. Can you imagine if I am skinny? I will probably be sinking right now!”
Time was passing by slowly. No changes on horizon, no lights, no sound, just me and nature. After a while I become part of it too. For a time being I must fall a sleep. It was like in best water bed. Sea was warm; air was cooling down and couple of times I wished for morning.
“Ihh, getting cold here, my head is getting cold. I wish to sun come up soon. What is the time? Four? I have slept full hour! That’s good! Preserving energy is good, but what is that? “
My stomach start protesting and bowel movement for a moment startled me. Most natural action of body is to relive it self. Now In the middle of no where I have to go.
“What I am to do? To pee is easy, did it before, but what now? How to do that? For Christ seek take shorts off and just do it! Yes and than this will float around me whole day, most likely will come to me as flotsam come to the ship. And what if odor attracts sharks? Oh well Skipper always say sharks don’t eat shit, but in Adriatic in blue sharks we found from soda cans to license plates, whom is to say to this one here have different appetite? Or might be he doesn’t but giant squid do? Yes, yes, and you are just lucky one to be found by giant squid! Oh shut up, rest is the best. What is the time? Almost time for wake up call. Stupid, if they are not awake now they will newer be. Ok, Ok, rest relaxes.”
My mind was racing from over drive in dead slow. At moment I was in strange mood. It was possible to they pass by me in search and not see me.
“What if they don’t see me? Nooo, they trained to see smallest things bobbing on the surface, four big ones and we have six small binoculars aboard. That make ten pairs of trained eyes searching surface, they will see me! What ewer will see when time comes? Look this way, oh boy that’s pretty; this star is pure blue color. And other one? Red, blue and white and blinking? Newer heard about the stars behaving like it, but what is it? Ha, ha ha ET come home, hey ET come here I want to go home. Ha ha ha, oh boy are you dummy. Aha, can see the light, oh over there is the East, Good morning world; I am still here and kicking. Skipper will tell me to I didn’t come here for rest and relax but to work. Boy he must be crazy mad right now! Well which direction we were sailing last night, so I can watch around and spot them before they spot me? Damn it, I should go to the bridge and check as I did before. I think were going North North East, that is in this direction, ok, ok, now in search pattern they will be coming from my left and my right, its impossible to see them with bow on me, first I will see is the smoke from my engines. Few hours after, hull will be visible. You must wait till you see people on the house and bridge, than start splashing, take shirt off and wave. That’s it until I don’t see them they cant see me. No, that is not right, they can spot me way before they on higher ground. My sight is limited by curvature of the earth and them looking from sixty feet above sea. “
Sun was climbing slowly but steady and soon was becoming hot. I knew to thirst will be my enemy. I forced my self to think about ways to prevent that at least for a while.
“You remember when you were the kid and read Karl May books about Winnetou and Old Shatterhand. In desert he suckled on round rocks and that made mouth produce saliva! That’s it! Oh, shut up dummy. Where will you find rock here? But what should I do? I need something! Wait wait, flash light has bulb in side and is round, just don bite and all will be ok. “
I took flash light apart and took light bulb in the mouth. Cold glass brought instant gratification, no ice cream taste so good. After a while my mouth, start to produce saliva just as in the book.
“Good old Karl May, died century ago and still do good did's on this earth. God almighty, it’s really hot today! What is the time? Seven o ‘clock, timed fly when you don’t needed, now it doesn’t move. What if I have fallen through dimensional door? It might be to me watching this from other dimension? Dummy, it is no such thing as parallel dimensions! Or is it?”
Noon already is gone and still is no sign of ship. Being wet is ok; being wet and cooked at same time by relentless start above my head is something completely different. This sun is bugging me.
“Remember when I was young and being fishing with family? That was good times! What happen to the grandma cow? She was giving plenty of milk! Milk? If I just can have one cold cup of it! You must be hungry, don’t think about food, it will drive you crazy. Cold, I want something cold to drink! Don’t think, no thinking is good thing. Think only about rescue. God is it hot, what if I put shirt on the head? That might help. No rest of the body will be exposed, you don’t want that. Just for few minutes! Ok , pull back on the head but leave front toward the sun. Oh my Gosh, this fills good. Should do that earlier! “
Sun was slowly sinking to the West when first time I sow the ship.
“Here, here, there they are what is this sound, look up, look up, its good old bell 47. Hey hey can’t you see me? Hey you son of a bitch I am here, no don’t go away, I am here, here!”
Helicopter flew over me and didn’t see me.
“Don’t let the hope disappear. They will find me! Oh no they going away. Get back you shit, get back, get me out of here, oh God please let them see me and come back. I will light candles in Hagatna cathedral if they find me!”
Ship was so close and yet so far. I knew they are in search pattern and will be back this way soon.
“Oh baby, come back to me, ill feed you best motor oil I can and purify diesel for you twice. I promise ill keep you clean, just- come back to me”
Sun was so low, if they don’t find me now sure is no chance to find me at night.
“There she goes again, closer, closer, I can see them on the crows nest , and I can see them on Pilot house. They get closer! Lets pull the shirt now and start making commotion and splash, this will attract eye attention, don’t lay motion less, did they see me? Every body running around, to the skiff, speed boat, aha they stop and now turning back, here here I am. I am tired now. They found me, I am tired.”
Speed boat and skiff were launched, speed boat racing toward me. Its here. Familiar face leans above me with gallon of drink in the jug.
“You want some?”
Chamorro punch newer tested better in my life. Cool liquid was running down my throat.
One of the guys in speed boat helps me in.
“You know you as hole, you keep us awake all night long, but you know its so good to see you. Old man will chew your as down to the size.”
From speed boat I walk on the pilot house deck.
“ You dirty son of a bitch, I didn’t give you permission to go swim, this is not a pleasure cruise, this is working boat, and oh boy it’s good to see you. We were about to give up for today, when deck boss saw you from crows nest, what happen to you last night?”
Since then every day is good day, gift, ultimate present, and yes it was just first time I have gone for drink.